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Olivello Restaurant: Hidden gem of the Winelands

January 19, 2009
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The pride and joy of Marianne Wine Farm

The pride and joy of Marianne Wine Farm

Waitressing is a strange profession. Most people hate it, but then there are a few select individuals that find it an easy and lucrative venture. I fall into the latter category. Even though I’ve had various grown-up nine to five jobs, I always manage to squeeze in a few waitressing shifts throughout the week. It’s tax free, cash-in-hand and I am a people person, which means I actually like serving customers. (Well, most of the time. You do get a very broad selection of dining douche bags that should really just stay home.)

The latest restaurant that has the pleasure of my weekend services is Olivello, a beautiful lakeside eatery situated on Marianne Wine Farm just outside of Stellenbosch. Having worked at various franchise restaurants in my time Olivello has been a welcome breath of fresh air. The wooden cottage lies nestled in the crook of a hillside, enveloped in vineyards and flanked by a beautiful lake. Since the setting is so breathtaking the managerial team have take great care not to overpower the venue with unnecessary embellishment. Simply, elegant wooden tables and chairs are complemented by gingham tablecloths and a sprinkling of fairy lights that add a delicious whimsical touch. One simply cannot imagine a more beautiful place to work.

Lynne and Laurille, the enigmatic proprietors, have a genuine love for the hospitality industry. After an exciting, but quite hectic, decade spent managing Café Paradiso in Cape Town, they have brought all their combined knowledge of the industry to the table. Lynne Aberdeen is the food lover and the brain behind Olivello’s inspiring menu’s; while Laurille Krug’s wine knowledge informs the tasty, yet affordable, wine list.

The venue operates on an A’ la Carte basis from Wednesday to Friday. Saturdays are normally reserved for a function (such as weddings, birthday parties or cooking demos) and Sunday’s for the Mediterranean Table, a buffet-style dining experience that has people flocking to Olivello from far and wide. If you’re anything like me, the word ‘buffet’ conjures up images of limp vegetables and overcooked meat in your mind. Not so at Olivello. By the time the waiters sign in on Sunday mornings the kitchen staff had already been at it for hours, chopping, slicing, kneading, basting, you name it. Simple, fresh food is what Lynne does best, which means that everything from the lip-smacking Limoncello to the fragrant seasoning salts are made right there in Lynne’s kitchen.

By noon the restaurant is set, each glass gleaming, each piece of cutlery meticulously polished. As the guests start to arrive Lynne and her team begin by putting out the soups and antipasti’s. (A word of caution: if you ever to end up making the trip to Olivello, be careful. Filling up on the starters is an amateur mistake I’ve seen newcomers make time and again. DON’T DO IT. Keep space for the main course – it’s worth it I promise). These vary from week to week and include everything from dolmades to hummus and all kinds of pretty dishes with names I really can’t pronounce.

Next the blinds to the kitchen area are drawn up and the doors thrown open, inviting diners inside to dish up the main course. Again, there is something different every week, but you can expect treats like Mediterranean lamb, vegetable frittata, fresh fish, etc. Add to this a sumptuous dessert menu that features, amongst other things, a provoking Pavlova and a charming chocolate torta, and you can understand why this little wooden cottage is filled to the brim with customers every weekend, come rain or shine.

Working at Olivello has really opened up my eyes to what the world of restaurant dining is supposed to be about. It’s supposed to be about creating an experience, about offering your customers a relaxing spot in which to enjoy the food and drink they’ve come so far for. Restaurants are meant to facilitate escapism much in the same way as good movies and novels do. Sadly we live in an era of mass production and instant gratification and many restaurant proprietors seem to subscribe to the minimum input/maximum profit management style. The only good way to express my disgust at this notion is by means of an Afrikaans expression: “SIES MAN!!!”

So, next time you feel like getting out of the city and taking a Cape Town tour, why not venture out to Olivello? I guarantee the setting (and Lynne’s unique brand of Cape Comfort food) will have you smiling in no time.

Filed under: South Africa, food, tours

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